Most visitors to the Jewish Quarter (HaRova HaYehudi) see a beautifully restored neighborhood of honey-colored stone and quiet courtyards. But as a guide, I always tell my guests: the real Jewish Quarter is beneath your feet. Because this area was largely destroyed in 1948 and rebuilt after 1967, archaeologists had a "once-in-history" opportunity to excavate an entire city block before the new houses went up. Today, the Jewish Quarter is a living "double-decker" city. While c
